| 2/16/05 |
Kim and I got out of town for a long overdue weekend away earlier this
month, and went to Cooke City. Cooke is at the "end of the road" this time of
year, and pretty well out there in any season. The northeast entrance to Yellowstone Park
lies just past Cookes suburb (and even smaller neighbor) Silver Gate, and in
less snowy seasons one might continue east and north over the spectacular Beartooth
Highway, the highest (a smidgen over 10,000) paved road in Montana, or veer
southeast to Cody, WY. Once the snow flies, though, you can only reach Cooke via
Yellowstones north entrance at Gardiner, and proceeding beyond the east edge of town
requires some sort of on-snow transportation . Its a popular snowmobiling
destination, and snow machines vastly outnumber wheeled vehicles this time of year.
Were more given to non-motorized recreation, and snowshoed up Woody Creek just south
of town, in an area closed to snowmobiles. Cooke City was written up in the Big Sky Journal some years back,
as retaining the sort of lawless frontier vibe common to mining camps of a century ago,
although Id venture to guess that crime is basically non-existent. Id say the
populace is pretty well self-policing, and as I recall the Journal article touted the unofficial "mayor" as being one of a contingent of somewhat
disaffected young males, given to pool sharking, philosophy, and liquor consumption at the
Miners Saloon. Kim and I ate at the Miners, and while a couple of
"councilmen" appeared with cased pool cues in hand, we left before things really
got rolling. What struck me, and earned mention in the Journal article also, was the
vastly disproportionate male/female ratio. In fact, I hadnt seen such a gross
imbalance since my days in the farming communities of Montanas Hi-Line. An
unofficial census of about 35 patrons resulted in only two of the fair gender, and
fortunately one of those was with me! Obviously, one might draw all sorts of sociological
conclusions from this data, but if a woman was looking to meet eligible males the
Miners would be fertile ground, so to speak. Especially if she were wearing an
Arctic Cat parka and a low-cut sweater, as aside from the local philosopher/pool sharks
the clientele ran heavily toward Midwestern snowmobilers. As the saying goes; "the
odds are good, but the goods are odd".
We hadnt gone to Cooke for the night life, though, or snowmobiling either, for
that matter. The northern range of Yellowstone from Gardiner to Cooke is one of the
premier winter wildlife viewing areas in the world. The big draw anymore are arguably
wolves, but other wildlife is in abundance, and we saw loads of bison and elk, plus
bighorn sheep, antelope, beaver, plus an assortment of waterfowl and raptors. We also had
reliable reports of a spot to look for otters, but alas, they were not in evidence, so my
dearth of otter sightings continues. The most up-to-date journal of area wildlife
sightings I know of is on Dan and Cindy Hartmans website. Theyre wildlife
photographers based out of Silver Gate, and if you check out their website Im sure
youll agree their work speaks for itself.
We didnt see any wolves this trip, although spoke with some folks whod seen
a couple of lone ones near Slough Creek. Interestingly, we did see several coyotes. The
smaller wild canids reportedly find life a much more harrowing proposition since the
re-introduction of their larger cousins, as wolves will kill coyotes when opportunity
presents. I suppose the upside is that wolf kills provide an additional food source that
benefits a variety of scavengers, at least as long as they dont perish themselves in
the process. On that note, a flock of ravens and a coyote were cleaning up a recent elk
kill near Soda Butte. Interestingly, on our
departure a Ranger was in the process of sawing up the elks antlers. I suppose
thats to reduce the temptation for antler enthusiasts to trot out there and pick up
a souvenir, which I must admit briefly crossed my mind before better sense prevailed.
Still, conspiracy theorists (which abound when it comes to wolves, arguably with some
merit) might question whether it also tends to hide evidence of wolf predation to the
casual observer.
The northern Yellowstone elk herd is clearly suffering significant predation. One of
the quickest ways I know of to get into a heated debate in these parts is to take a
position on that. Since we dont really get winter to speak of in these parts
anymore, it seems, a lot of the elk never leave the Park and hence their numbers
cant be controlled by hunters here in Montana. The wolves are filling that role
quite effectively (too effectively, many say), so once again Im glad to see that
Montana and Idaho have been granted greater autonomy in managing wolves that have migrated
from Yellowstone. The other predominate species that arguably overpopulate the northern
range are bison, who are relatively impervious to wolf predation. On that note, our bison
bill, HB544 is up for its first hearing before the House Fish, Wildlife, and
Parks committee tomorrow (2/17/05). We have the Governors and FWPs support,
and the Department of Livestock will be neutral on it, were told. At this point,
were cautiously optimistic that our bill will find widespread support. It clarifies
three points;
- Designate buffalo as "valued, native wildlife in the state of Montana."
- Designate Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks as the agency responsible for fair chase,
public hunting. (The bill does not mandate a buffalo hunt, however when a buffalo hunt is
reinstated it will be managed by the wildlife professionals at Fish, Wildlife and Parks.)
- Continue to insure that private property rights and Montanas valued brucellosis
free status are protected, by maintaining cooperation with the Department of Livestock.
The exact bill language is available on the Legislatures website,
but the Cliff Notes version is that FWP will be allowed to manage bison as wildlife in
areas where there is no risk of disease transmission (brucellosis) to humans or livestock.
Fortunately, there are vast areas of public land adjacent to Yellowstone where livestock
conflict is basically non-existent, and we feel its high time we stop treating bison
as a potential problem, and turn them into an asset! Once again, there has never, not
once, been a documented case of brucellosis transmission between bison and cattle, and in
fact there is considerable evidence that bison develop a natural immunity to it. Some of
the more radical elements are actually advocating the total depopulation of bison and elk
in Yellowstone as a disease control measure! Eliminating brucellosis is a worthy goal, but
thats an unrealistic (and thankfully; politically and biologically impossible) way
to go about it.
If those points make sense to you, which they overwhelmingly do to most, Id urge
you to follow HB544s progress on the Legislatures website, and express
support to legislators via e-mail (their addresses are on that website) or by calling the
legislative hotline at 406-444-4800. |
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