| 1/26/04 |
After five consecutive winters with below to much below normal
snowfall; Montana is having an old-fashioned winter for a change.
The skiing is fantastic, particularly at Bridger Bowl where theyve
been favored by nearly every weather system thats come through.
Its old news by now, but the "Christmas Storm" will go down
in legend, with 71" of the lightest powder known to man coming
down in one 24-hour shot, and right at 100" for the week.
The Avalanche
Center report estimated the water content of that near-six
foot dump at 2" of moisture. The water content of snow obviously
varies over a substantial range, but a "normal" rule
of thumb is one inch of moisture per foot of snow, so you can
see that were talking exceptionally light, fluffy powder
here.
How Bridger Bowl
wound up in the crosshairs of that storm is a meteorological
quirk, as that was nearly three times the snowfall of anywhere
else in the state. That trend continues, as Bridgers received
over 30" in the last three days. Sometimes, when we get
a northwest flow aloft, with just the right combination of temperature
and humidity
. If the folks at the National Weather Service
are right, the Rocky Mountain Front and Glacier Park area are
next up, though, with up to two feet of snow forecast there
for tonight.
So, after five consecutive years of drought (and with only a couple of exceptions, more
like 23 years!) the moisture is more than welcome. All the same, I bet a lot of ranchers,
construction workers, and others whose immersion in the fluff is not really on a voluntary basis are finding the
situation growing a tad wearisome. All I really have to do is keep our driveway plowed,
but even that is eating up more time than Id like, and we are likely looking at
another two solid months of heavy snow potential (not to mention April and even May
snowstorms that can dump prodigious amounts of heavy, wet white). Not to complain, though,
we sure enough need it, but a nice, gentle, three-day June rain is sounding kinda nice,
too.
Here in the more outdoor recreation-oriented areas of western and southwest Montana,
nobodys really complaining too much, particularly not the snow removal
contractors and body shops (the roads have been a fright!). Its when you get out
into the Big Open country of eastern and north central Montana that winter can lose its
shine in a hurry! Ive recently been re-reading Spike Van Cleves book "A
Day Late and a Dollar Short". He was a ranch kid from Melville, on the east slope of
the Crazies, and a third-generation stockman (heck of a horseman, too
.). He
wasnt just your average bumpkin, though, as he wound up with a scholarship to
Harvard. He bagged higher learning after a couple of years, which could say something
about the pull that country can exert on those so inclined, although romantic interest in
a certain ranch girl perhaps figured more heavily in the decision. In any case, he left us
all a rich legacy with his books "Forty Years Gatherings" plus the
aforementioned "Day Late &
.". Highly recommended reading
.
Anyway, he has a chapter about the tribulations stockmen (not to mention livestock) endure
during winters like this one. A particular object of ire are the urban weather forecasters
who gleefully report the chance for yet another big snow dump. Back in the thirties and
forties, it was not uncommon for the temperature to never get above zero for a month or
two hand running (as Spike would say). Feeding livestock with a team of horses and bobsled
under those conditions would be a special sort of ongoing torture. Theres folks in
eastern MT who are living that right now. A lot of country from roughly Lewistown east
received around two feet of snow in the Christmas storm, but perhaps more noteworthy was
the subsequent wind and chill factors down the -50 range.
Oh, things are a bit more automated now, but as Spike points out; machinery can be
recalcitrant when the mercury goes below the zero mark, where a team of horses will start
no matter the weather. That Christmas storm caught pretty much everybody by surprise, and
I recently read a report by some ranchers in the Jordan area who were unable to even get
to their livestock for two days afterward. They raise sheep, which can take salty
weather (another Spikeism) somewhat better than cows, and reportedly death loss was
minimal. Still
. More power to em, but you gotta wonder. It would be one thing
if it were an even modestly lucrative venture, and Im trying to be tactful here, and
certainly respect their efforts, and have no doubt that they have as much or more stuffing
than any folks anyplace, but
. Raising sheep strikes me as requiring a special type
of lunacy! And yeah, maybe Grandpa did OK with it back in the forties, but
Thats harsh country. It gets a little emptier every year, and it seems to me that
those whore going to stick it out long term are going to be the ones who capitalize
on the unique qualities their neighborhood boasts. Oh no, Im having a
flashback to a stultifyingly dull college economics class, that even the efforts of madcap
genius professor Gale Cramer couldnt make exciting, but the concept of comparative
advantage really holds true. Its no wonder that worldwide sheep
production is dominated by Australia and New Zealand, where they dont have an
abundance of large predators or howling blizzards. We work with ranchers in the Missouri
Breaks who offer "working ranch vacations" (an oxymoron if there ever was, but
folks love em), and outfit hunts for trophy-class deer, elk, and antelope, not to
mention upland birds and waterfowl. Theres very few other places on the planet (OK,
none come to mind right off) that offer that rich diversity of wildlife in combination
with the stunning scenery and solitude of the Breaks, and you gotta work with your
strengths, right? And, nobodys hitching up a team or firing up the tractor to go
feed deer or elk (its illegal to feed wildlife in Montana, for one thing). And I
havent even mentioned the native cattle to this region, bison! The nastiest weather doesnt appear to trouble them unduly, much less so
even than the other native species mentioned. In fact, there were reports of a herd of
antelope that were out on the ice of Fort Peck reservoir & fell through. Some 80 head
perished. Mother Nature is unforgiving, and were bound to see some wildlife
winterkill this year, but its looking probable that a lot of snowmelt will go into
the ground next spring, which if were blessed with even a modest amount of spring
rains will result in abundant forage growth, and Ill stick my neck out and predict a
lot of does running around with twin fawns next June. Survival of the fittest, & all
that. Anyway, the point is that the only sensible course of action is working with nature,
instead of against it. Thats small consolation when a blizzard is howling outside, I
realize, but buffalo ranchers find that situation less vexing than beef buffs, no
question. Not that either is necessarily a license to print money
.
Of course, most of you arent toughing out a flashback winter in the Breaks, and
are more interested in taking advantage of the recreational possibilities the season
affords. If life gives you lemons, make lemonade, and if youre blessed with record
snow; go skiing. Its a no-brainer
. Of course theres snowmobiling, but
our personal preference runs toward the non-motorized versions of snow travel. As
mentioned, the skiing at Bridger has been phenomenal, and were heading up to Big Sky
this coming weekend. Backcountry ski ventures are on tap, and a week ago I narrowly missed
strapping on the snowshoes while accompanying some folks on a late elk hunt on the Flying
D Ranch. If youre contemplating a unique Montana winter adventure, we still think
those backcountry Yurt
trips are hard to beat. A few hundred generations of Mongolian nomads have learned a thing
or two about winter comfort, and a stove-heated yurt makes for a dandy sanctuary from the
cold.
Be careful out there, though
. Remarkably, there havent been any avalanche
fatalities yet this winter, or even reports of near misses. A combination of increased
risk awareness, education, caution, and luck no
doubt, and lets hope it holds. Tragically, a skier and snowboarder have died,
though. The ski fatality occurred at Bridger Bowl after the Christmas storm. A local guy
skiing by himself jumped off a cliff in Avalanche Gulch. Upon landing he apparently
augered in headfirst, was unable to extricate himself, and suffocated. A couple of days
later a friend noticed his car still in the lot, and after checking around reported him
missing. The ski patrol started searching after the area closed on New Years Eve,
and found him about 10:00 PM, thanks in large part to the avalanche transceiver he was
wearing. Last week a snowboarder perished in the backcountry outside Showdown ski area, in
the Little Belts near Neihart. Hed ducked under a boundary rope, ignored sign
cautioning that a return to the area would be impossible beyond that point, and followed
the siren song of steep & deep. Similarly, someone noticed his car still in the lot a
couple of days later, and a search was initiated. Luckily it hadnt snowed, and they
were able to follow his tracks. Hed gotten into some extremely rugged terrain in the
Jumping Creek drainage. One-piece snowboards are particularly ill-suited to backcountry
travel, and the snow was too deep to get anywhere on foot. Searchers spotted his body from
the air, in such a difficult spot that helicopter retrieval was even quite problematic.
The common thread was solo ventures. Ive gone on a lot of solo adventures myself,
and expect to continue, but I draw the line at backcountry deep-snow explorations. The
cost of miscalculations or just bad luck are too high, and besides, its more fun
with companions.
See you on the slopes
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