| 5/6/04 |
We got out on our first packtrip of the season last
weekend. First time Ive ever taken a horseback overnighter
the first of May! Ordinarily, the trails would still blocked by
snowbanks, and while we had to take minor detours around a few
of those, overall it wasnt a problem. Of course, we werent
on some a trip to some high
mountain basin, just checking out an obscure lower-elevation trail
to seldom-visited Snowslide Creek. That stream drains some of
the nether reaches of the Sixteen country, which you may recall
mentioned in a previous column regarding Ivan Doigs books,
as its where he spent a significant portion of his youth.
Just yesterday I came across what I strongly suspect is the only
by-name written mention (till now) of the Snowslide Creek vicinity
while re-reading "50 Years of Hunting in Montana" by
H.L. Inabnit. He also spent a significant portion of his youth
in the neighborhood, before going on to pastor at Grace Baptist
Church in Bozeman, as well as churches in the Missoula and Kalispell
areas. Considering that its not really all that far from
Bozeman, the upper Sixteen remains as remote and sparsely populated
area now as it was when H.L. was growing up in the teens and twenties.
The weather and wildlife have changed, though. Back then winters
were unrelentingly bitter, with a normal snow depth of about four
feet on the level. Thats not up in the peaks, either, but
out on the valley floor at roughly 6000 elevation. Also,
back then the predominate wildlife species (possibly excepting
coyotes) were mule deer.
Chalk it up to global warming, or just the normal flux in weather
patterns, but we are definitely in a warm and dry phase currently,
have been with few exceptions since the early 80s, and
that trend shows no sign of abating. Thereve been plenty
of recent winters when the local ski areas would scarcely be
able to boast four feet of snow, and the valley bottoms are
often bare. Mule deer numbers crashed after the winter of 96,
and while theyve recovered nicely, the predominate megafauna
anymore are elk. We saw them literally everywhere we looked
last weekend, and in fact, when I awoke at dawn Sunday and sat
up, the first thing I saw was six elk unconcernedly grazing
about 150 yards away! Theres lots worse ways to start
the day
..

Inabnit makes no mention of elk in that country during his
youth. Given his later affinity for hunting them, Id take
that to mean they were exceedingly scarce if not non-existent.
That jibes with other discussions Ive had with old-timers
around the neighborhood. Here on the west slope of the Bridgers,
elk were almost unheard of until about the early eighties. Now
we see them on pretty much of a daily basis. In fact, populations
are at all-time highs (since records have been kept, anyway)
for the Bridger Elk Management Unit, which catches both sides
of the range including the Sixteen country. Except for ranchers
burdened with springtime fence repair (elk are tough on fences),
no one I know finds fault with that situation. The elk also
wreak havoc on a neighbors fences where I pasture my horses.
Repairing the damage is one of my annual springtime chores,
and I consider it a small price to pay for the enjoyment I get
from watching those elk throughout the year.
Checking out that trail had been an item of curiosity with
me for some time. It accesses some scattered parcels of Forest
Service land, although most of the country it passes through
is privately owned.
Aside from the fall hunting season, and some logging on the
private land, the area is lightly used. Under the current Gallatin
National Forest Travel Plan, the area is open to ATV use, so
I expected to find the trail had devolved into a troad, the
2-track not-quite-road that usually results from 4-wheeler usage.
We were pleasantly surprised to find basically no evidence of
use at all, though. In fact, other than some aged and weathered
"Stock Driveway" signs, there was basically no trail
at all. Still, its a numbered Forest Service trail, although
its original use was probably trailing sheep to summer pasture.
These days youd be hard pressed to find a band of sheep
in the Sixteen country. Several of the ranchers outfit for elk
hunts, though, which strikes me as an eminently more practical
way to capitalize on the resources at hand than running a band
of woolies. Some resident hunters dont like the idea of
private landowners profiting from public wildlife, but hey,
if the rancher is providing habitat, and has incentive to maximize
that habitat for wildlife; more power to em, in my opinion.
Besides, there are those parcels of public land that nobody
seems to go to the trouble to reach
. And, now that weve
checked that trail off our list of upcoming explorations, I
probably wont rush back myself. We just prefer our usual
elk hunting haunts, where we dont have to keep such a
close eye on the map to avoid inadvertent trespassing. Still,
if you were intrigued with the idea of hunting an area with
record high elk densities, I think it would behoove you to dramatically
expand your available hunting area by going on one of the outfitted
hunts, so if thats of interest, drop us a line. And incidentally,
theres still those surplus
non-resident licenses available
.
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