| 2/8/03 |
Just after my January column bemoaning the lack of snow; guess what?
Thats right, winter finally arrived. Any connection is open to speculation, but
there is no question in my mind
. So, Id started a couple of update columns
since, but they dealt almost completely with this weather theme that I seem to harp on ad
nauseum, werent quite up to snuff, and got 86d. Thats right, long-time
readers may disagree, but I try not to post my more banal and mundane thoughts in this
column. No, I save those for my friends and e-mail correspondents ;-). I do make some
attempt to stick to the "Gossip, News, and Hot Tips" theme of the Moccasin
Telegraph, and believe this one contains notable amounts of all three. Took the day
"off" and went skiing at Big Sky on Thursday. Earlier in the week there was a
report on the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche
Center website, that Lone Mountain had received more precipitation in the previous
five days than the entire preceding six months. And incidentally, Hot Tip #1; the
Avalanche Center report is an integral part of my early morning routine this time of year.
It's a wealth of backcountry reports and snow safety information, and entertaining to
boot. Besides being monster skiers, those guys are among other things weathermen with a
sense of humor. Even if you cant make it out snowriding in Montanas
near-endless backcountry on any given day, you can experience it in some sort of vicarious
sense in their reports. Well worth checking out
. Besides, it could save your life if
youre heading into avalanche terrain.
But back on track here, on Wednesday the Big Sky
Resort website was reporting an incredible six feet of fresh pow in Liberty
Bowl. Whoa, baby
.! Bridger Bowl had
received a stunning 34" of cold smoke. What a dilemma
. All over southwest
Montana folks were plotting their absence from wherever they were scheduled to be on
Thursday, and a lot of scheduled work and school activities got backburnered or ignored
altogether. The only question was where to go. On Wednesday a lot of Bridger Bowl was
closed due to avalanche danger. We figured theyd have at least most of the mountain
open on Thursday, but you never know, and besides there was that report of six feet at
Big Sky. Man
. I havent skied in powder that deep in just ages!
One other factor came into play in the decision, which constitutes Hot Tip #2. A while
back Id come across a source for bargain lift tickets at Bridger Bowl, Big Sky, and
Big Mountain. $30 at Bridger, $40 at Big Sky, and as I recall $35 at Big Mountain.
Im not planning any ski safaris to Whitefish in the near future, so didnt pay
that close of attention to the Big Mountain prices. Anyway, I discovered notice of this
matter on a notice posted on an outdoor equipment bulletin board at MSU. Contact
information consisted of an e-mail address, montanaskifanatics@hotmail.com, which I
promptly fired off an inquiry to. That was during the Christmas holiday, and although the
respondent replied with details immediately, at the time the ski conditions were less than
stellar and I held off. Wednesday night I fired off another last-minute inquiry, and
somewhat to my surprise found out there were still bargain tickets available and made
arrangements to pick some up Thursday morning. I must admit, I had some misgivings and was
half expecting to find a dreadlocked Ridge Hippie peddling purloined passes out of a
trench coat in an alley someplace. Au Contraire
.! This deal is completely on the up
& up, and the man with the plan is as clean-cut and enterprising of young entrepreneur
as youd care to meet. The tickets are surplus from a state sponsored Learn-To-Ski program, (Hot Tip #3) which is a
very worthwhile thing in itself if youre looking for a nice package combining lift
tickets, equipment rentals, and lessons. And hey, those last two tips are the slickest
deals Ive come across in some time, at least as far as skiing goes.
Since normal fare at Big Sky is $58, that clinched the decision, and Thursday morning
we joined the caravan of folks heading down the Gallatin Canyon toward Big Sky. As I
mentioned in a previous column, half the
reason I have been wanting to go to Big Sky is for the view from the top of the Lone Peak
Tram. On the way down the Canyon the surrounding peaks were socked in with fog, and it
appeared visibility would be limited at best. Who cared, though? Six feet of
powder, remember
.?? About the time we were getting close to the turnoff into Big
Sky, though, the fog started dissipating, with tantalizing hints of blue sky peeking
through, and shortly it had cleared off altogether and Lone Mountain lay before us,
thrusting up into the blue sky like some giant white pyramid! Oh..! We were coming
absolutely unhinged with anticipation!! Sunshine, blue skies, and six feet of
fresh, light powder!!!
It was on the way up the first lift, the Swift Current Quad, that the first hints of
doubt started to creep in. Yeah, there was fresh snow, but it appeared to be more in the
one foot range. Not to worry, though, the six feet report had specified Liberty
Bowl, off the top of Lone Mountain. So, I pushed my skeptical alter ego into the nether
reaches of my mind, and forged on to the Lone Peak Triple Chair and the bowl. Companions
wanted to make a run in the Bowl before venturing to the tippy-top of the mountain, and
with the first turns my cynical alter ego once again made its presence known.
The natives of the far north and other climates where snow is a major factor of life
have a whole vocabulary for the infinite variations of the white stuff. Montana snow
adjectives may not run into the hundreds, but still certainly will number in the dozens.
The term for the stuff I found myself rocketing through at Big Sky is a singularly coarse
term dating back to my ski patrol days. Used to excess, which seems the norm for a lot of
people and snowboarders, the term is offensive and sort of low-class, IMO, but
theres times when nothing else really quite does the job. The snow at Big Sky that
day was what can only be called Wind-F***. When the wind gets to working on a fresh dump
of snow, it does skiers no favors. It compacts the powder into something that is just
plain challenging to ski.
Now I have perhaps more experience than most with the aforementioned wind-foo. I grew
up skiing at Teton Pass, a delightful little
mountain (actually its a big mountain, but the lifts only go about halfway up) deep
in the Lewis Range of the Rocky Mountain Front west of Choteau. The scenery up there is
unmatched, but unfortunately, so is the wind. Builds character, I suppose. I know it
taught me that you can never relax when skiing wind-pack. In powder, you can get away with
a few mistakes, but in wind-poo if you get just a little too far forward, youll
nosedive, lose forward momentum at a truly startling rate, and invariably biff it onto
your nose. Get even just a little far back on your skis, and your turn will just instantly
cease to occur, and youll rocket off course in whatever direction you were aimed at
the moment as if shot from a catapult. That is a disconcerting sensation, usually followed
by overcompensation in one direction or another, and down you go again! Wears on ya
after a while
.
It appears technology may have come to the rescue, however. After our bowl
run, we lost a couple of our group to the lower reaches of the mountain, but the survivors
gathered in the line for the Tram. Now I am resistant to fashion trends, but it
immediately became apparent that in order to fit in with the Tram crowd, you need a helmet
and a pair of fat skis! My buddy Mike was demoing a pair of fatties. I swear, those things
are wide as water skis and must weigh the better part of twenty pounds. Now he is a good
skier anyway, but he was able to blow through the crud with absolute impunity. He
didnt have to spend just too awful long standing around waiting for me, but keeping
up was a challenge, I tell ya
My boards arent exactly skinny skis, theyre some Salomon X-Screams; what
passed for shaped skis a few years back. And just the day before, I had scored a screaming
deal (less than half price!) on a pair of apparently brand new Scarpa Denali Alpine
Touring boots at Second Wind, a local consignment sporting good store. Those (my top
choice, but Id been watching for a deal on any sort of decent AT boots) have a
latching mechanism that you can unlock for uphill touring, and lock for the descent.
Theyre moderately stiff when locked, but noticeably less so than my antiquated
Salomon rear-entry boots, and while I only biffed it a couple of times, I was right on
that fine edge of losing it most of the day. On the way home Mike commented that when his
usual monster skier companions first got fat boards, he was having just a deuce of a time
keeping up, and usually felt like he was right on the ragged edge of control. No kidding,
dude! I can relate completely
.
So as youve probably deduced, there was considerably less than the purported six feet of snow up top. Man,
Id hate to think that was just a bald-faced lie, but either a lot of it blew away,
they found some spot in where a bunch of snow had fallen off trees, were measuring
horizontally, got confused with the metric system, or
. Upon our return, I checked
the Big Sky snow report again, and while they were still claiming the six feet in
Liberty Bowl, in another part of the report they had the more realistic total of one to
two feet. Feh
! When we left that morning, the Avalanche Center report hadnt
been updated yet, but checking that after the fact revealed the truth of the matter; that
the Bridgers had indeed gotten 34" of the most delightful powder known to mankind,
while the accumulation in the Big Sky vicinity of the Madison Range was more like a foot,
and the wind had done its number on that.
So, confound it anyway, I wish wed gone to Bridger! Reports from folks who skied
there indicate just overwhelming satisfaction, accompanied by advanced exhaustion. Oh,
well, Big Sky was still fun. Theres something to be said for standing on the top of
11, 166 Lone Mountain, even if the wind is howling by and the chill factor is
someplace way into the negative range. All the same, I will be viewing their snow reports
with a jaundiced eye, and requiring corroborating evidence from trusted sources before I
swallow any further six feet reports again. |
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