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Spanish Peaks area south of Bozeman offers some tremendous hiking and backpacking
opportunities, with rugged alpine scenery matching that of Glacier Park. Comprising the
northern end of the spectacular Madison Range, the Spanish Peaks lie north of the Big Sky
resort, and are part of the Lee Metcalf Wilderness, which means the trails are restricted
to foot or horse use only so you won’t be sharing the trail with off-road
vehicle users. With a host of lakes tucked into cirques below 10,000’ peaks, and an
extensive network of trails, you could easily spent a month or two exploring.
Unfortunately, I realize you probably don’t have that kind of time available, but
luckily the Spanish Peaks also have trails very well suited to day hikes. By far the two
most popular trailheads are the Spanish Creek trailhead on the north end of the Peaks and
the Lava Lake (Cascade Creek) trailhead along the east side. These two trailheads are
utilized by around seventy percent of the visitors to the area, so I wouldn’t count
on solitude on summer weekends, but it’s certainly not like you’re going to have
to take a number and wait your turn to hike, either. We’ll return to Spanish Creek
another day, but first let’s take a hike up to Lava Lake, arguably the most popular
day-hiking destination in the entire area.The trail to Lava Lake follows a very obvious
route without any potentially confusing intersections, so unlike the vast majority of
other hikes detailed in this website, it is not absolutely essential to have a map. Having
one adds to the enjoyment, though, and if nothing else is vastly entertaining to study at
home or in camp. Perhaps the most useful map for the Spanish Peaks, amazingly enough, is
the Spanish Peaks Wilderness map, available from the USFS Bozeman Ranger District office
at 406-587-6920. If you wish to have more detailed maps, the standard for backcountry
aficionados are the USGS 1:24000 topographical maps, available from http://mapping.usgs.gov/mac/findmaps.html.
For the trail to Lava Lake you need the Hidden Lake quadrangle map, and if you wish to
venture beyond the lake on the routes described subsequently, you will need the Garnet
Mountain and Gallatin Peak maps.
To reach the trailhead, follow US 191 west and south out of Bozeman past Gallatin
Gateway. Just over nine miles after the highway crosses the Gallatin River at the mouth of
the Gallatin Canyon, it again crosses the river at an abrupt ninety-degree corner. A
narrow gravel road departs the highway immediately before this bridge, and reaches a
well-developed trailhead within a few hundred yards. After skirting above some summer
cabins for the first third of a mile, the trail enters the Cascade Creek canyon, which it
follows to Lava Lake. Total distance to the lake is just less than three miles, with an
elevation gain of 1600’. While not a stroll along the beach, this hike is very
do-able for anyone in reasonable shape. The elevation is gained steadily and gradually,
and a log bridge facilitates the only creek crossing of any consequence.
Views are somewhat limited for about the first half of the trip as the trail passes
through a dense lodgepole forest, but open up as you get higher up into Cascade Creek. One
other thing that could be viewed as good or bad, depending on your point of view, is that
the trail is quite rocky. This is mostly a disadvantage for horse users, and the upside is
that you won’t encounter the mud bogs common to some other area trails with softer
footing. Also, since the trail is not especially popular with horseback riders, hikers
won’t often have to step around horse droppings (road apples). As you start getting
closer to the lake, the canyon bottom opens up with some meadows, a likely area to spot a
moose. A little further and the trail switchbacks up the natural dam that backs up the
lake, and you’re there!
The views improve dramatically at the lake, with 10,412’ Jumbo Mountain and
several other un-named 10,000+’ peaks surrounding the upper Cascade Creek valley. Should you wish to
make your trip an overnighter there’s several good camping sites near the foot of the
lake, and even day-hikers will want to spend some time savoring the rewards of their
exertion. If you’re interested in fishing, it’s worth wetting a line in pursuit
of the resident trout, which are mostly in about the 10" range. Some of the lakes in
the Spanish Peaks are noted for bigger (sometimes much bigger!) fish, but they tend to be
considerably harder to reach than Lava Lake.
Although the official Cascade Creek trail ends at the foot of the lake, a well-trodden
path extends to its upper end. Beyond that, you’re on your own, though. It’s not
too hard to bushwhack about a half mile beyond the lake, but after that the valley becomes
much steeper and choked with deadfall, making hiking beyond the lake a dubiously
worthwhile venture. Seldom-visited Jumbo Lake and Cascade Lakes lie near the head of the
valley, though, and I guarantee adventurous hikers will leave any crowds behind once they
venture much beyond Lava Lake. Clearly, reaching these far off-trail gems will require or
at least beg for an overnight trip.
For those wishing a longer trip, just before Lava Lake a trail branches off and heads
up the ridge to the east, gaining a grueling 2000’ vertical feet, mostly in the first
mile, on its way to a high (9000+’) ridge. Once this ridge is attained, though, the
going gets easier, and the views are tremendous. It eventually crosses Table Mountain and
descends to Deer and Moon lakes after about eight miles. Then you can descend Deer Creek
back down to the Gallatin River, from whence you will have to hitchhike back to your
vehicle unless you’ve arranged a shuttle beforehand. In my experience, exhausted
looking people carrying backpacks generally have very little trouble getting a ride in
this recreation-oriented area, and so getting back to your vehicle shouldn’t present
a big problem. Total distance between trailheads on the route described is about sixteen
miles. Obviously, only fit and experienced backpackers should undertake these sort of
trips.
Getting back on topic, though, nearly anyone can enjoy a day hike to Lava Lake. It is
by far the most easily accessible lake in the Spanish Peaks, lying nearly 2000’
vertical feet lower than most of the others, and experienced or otherwise, I’m
certain you’ll enjoy it.
See you on the trail…. |
