ontana’s
famous blue ribbon trout streams get tons of publicity, and justifiably so. They offer
fabulous fishing, but there are plenty of lesser known streams that are also good and have
much less fishing pressure. I particularly enjoy fishing smaller streams. The water is
easier to read for most people and the wading is easier than big rivers like the Yellowstone. The smaller streams may not have as much trophy potential, but
make up for it in fish numbers. Fishing for big fish is fine, but personally, I would
rather catch twenty or thirty one-pound fish in a day than spend several frustrating days
after a trophy. Say what you will about my level of development as a flyfisherman, I know
what I like. Besides, if I wanted my recreation to be frustrating, I could take up golf.
One
of my favorite smaller streams is the South Fork of Two Medicine, just south of Glacier
National Park. Its headwaters are high in the Badger-Two Medicine area, which lies south
of U.S. 2 and east of the continental divide. It runs generally northwest for about eight
miles through a fairly gentle valley between Two Medicine Ridge and the peaks of the
continental divide before swinging northeast. It then passes in and out of private
property, some of which is posted, for another nine miles before entering the Blackfeet
Indian Reservation. Within another five miles or so it joins the main Two Medicine.
At this point you may be saying "darn it, why isn't there a map included with this
article?" This is as good a place as any to explain my policy on putting maps into
articles. Any map sufficiently detailed to be useful, when reduced to a size compatible
with this format, becomes unreadable. You really need to have a full-sized map available,
and the one you want for the South Fork Two Medicine area is the Lewis & Clark
National Forest (Rocky Mountain Division) Visitors Map and Travel Plan, available from the
Forest Supervisor's Office in Great Falls, MT, 406-727-0901. Studying maps is a hugely
entertaining activity in itself for myself and most other outdoor types, and the map
mentioned covers a staggeringly vast area containing the Badger-Two Medicine area, Bob
Marshall Wilderness complex, and adjacent National Forest Lands. My copy has been reduced
to tatters, and in reaching that state has created an enormous treasure trove of memories.
Trust me, you want this map.
Fishing on the reservation requires a tribal permit, and most of the land around the
river is posted, but there is access at a bridge on the road to Heart Butte. This gravel
road leaves U.S. 2 about a mile and a half south of East Glacier. The next practical
access is from Lubec Ridge. There is no established trail here, watch for a rocky ridge
south of U.S. 2 a mile above the reservation boundary. A mile past this ridge, or two
miles west of the reservation boundary watch for a gate with tall gate posts on each side.
An abandoned road leads from this gate up to Lubec Ridge. It is a moderate 2.5 mile hike to the river. The hike is a worthwhile thing in
itself, the area abounds in wildlife and wildflowers, with great views of Glacier to the
north and the Badger-Two Medicine area to the south. For those more interested in fishing
than hiking, the next access point is a road that leads to within a mile of the river.
This road departs Highway 2 across from Lubec Lake, approximately three miles above the
reservation boundary. Watch for an unmarked approach just east of a summer cabin. A
vehicle with some ground clearance is advisable, while not exactly a jeep trail it has
some rough spots. After some old corrals the road forks, take the left fork. (The right
one is posted). After another couple of miles this road enters posted private property,
but there is room to park a few hundred yards above the gate. Proceeding on foot, one
needs to jog east around a corner of the private property fence before descending to the
river. The river lies between small cliffs in this area, but with a little searching
you will find places to descend to the river. Another access trail through private
property departs from Highway 2 just before the highway drops into the valley of summit
creek, approximately four miles above the reservation boundary. There is room to park near
the highway, or you can drive a few hundred yards down a road to a posted gate. The
trailhead is adjacent to this gate. This trail lends itself to use by ATV’s and leads
through private property for 1.5 miles to the South Fork. The next access to the west, and
the one I have used most often, is at a trailhead a mile and a half east of the summit at
the continental divide. Watch for an unloading ramp and horse hitch racks in a flat area
south of the highway. This trail crosses a low ridge before dropping to the river, total
distance is about 2.5 miles. Be warned, this trail can be quite boggy if the weather has
been wet. In my opinion, some of the best fishing lies above where this trail crosses the
South Fork. This trail can also be accessed from the campground at Summit, although the
distance is about a half mile further. Being a hiker and horseman, I kind of hate to
mention this, but the trails in this area are open to trail vehicles and are popular with
users of ATV’s. One other point to be aware of is that all of this is grizzly
country, so take appropriate precautions. With that said, I have never seen a grizzly or
even fresh bear sign in this area, but I’m sure there are a few around.
The South Fork is a classic freestone stream, about thirty to forty feet across in most
places, with riffles interspaced with deeper pools. There are several mini-canyons, as I call them, where the stream flows under small
cliffs, providing an intimate setting. It is great fun to cast a dry fly into one of these
pools and see several native cutthroats come streaking up through the crystal clear water
to hammer the fly. Sophisticated, match-the-hatch fly fishing it isn’t, but show me
someone who doesn’t find the fishing and setting enjoyable and I will show you
someone who has turned fishing into masochism.
Fly fishing works so well on this kind of stream that there is really no reason to
consider other techniques, although I suppose a fly and bobber combo on a spinning
outfit would work. Flies I have had success with include hopper patterns, elk hair caddis,
renegades, and Adams. Realistically, these fish aren’t particularly selective and any
reasonable dry fly properly presented should elicite strikes. I haven’t found nymphs
or streamers particularly effective, and since dry flies work so well and are great fun to
boot, I primarily stick to them. Fishing is normally good anytime from the end of run-off,
normally about mid-June, through the fall barring low water in late summer due to drought.
The South Fork Two Medicine is just one of those out-of-the-way places you aren’t
likely to read about in any of the mainstream fishing literature. Considering it is right
next to one of the most popular National Parks around, it is kind of odd it doesn’t
get more publicity. Critics will point out that it is getting publicity right here, and
that is something I agonized about when I was considering starting this business. I
don’t like revealing my spots anymore than anyone else, but the fact is, most of the
spots I like to go involve a degree of effort to get to, which thins out the crowds
dramatically. Most people aren’t willing to hike much over a mile, and consequently
the best hunting and fishing tends to lie beyond that point. I have found that if a person
is dedicated enough to put forth the effort to reach an out-of-the-way spot, they are
generally the kind of person I don’t mind helping. So, check out the South Fork, and
if you run into a red haired guy, it might well be me.
ontana’s
famous blue ribbon trout streams get tons of publicity, and justifiably so. They offer
fabulous fishing, but there are plenty of lesser known streams that are also good and have
much less fishing pressure. I particularly enjoy fishing smaller streams. The water is
easier to read for most people and the wading is easier than big rivers like the
Yellowstone. The smaller streams may not have as much trophy potential, but
make up for it in fish numbers. Fishing for big fish is fine, but personally, I would
rather catch twenty or thirty one-pound fish in a day than spend several frustrating days
after a trophy. Say what you will about my level of development as a flyfisherman, I know
what I like. Besides, if I wanted my recreation to be frustrating, I could take up golf.
moderate 2.5 mile hike to the river. The hike is a worthwhile thing in
itself, the area abounds in wildlife and wildflowers, with great views of Glacier to the
north and the Badger-Two Medicine area to the south. For those more interested in fishing
than hiking, the next access point is a road that leads to within a mile of the river.
This road departs Highway 2 across from Lubec Lake, approximately three miles above the
reservation boundary. Watch for an unmarked approach just east of a summer cabin. A
vehicle with some ground clearance is advisable, while not exactly a jeep trail it has
some rough spots. After some old corrals the road forks, take the left fork. (The right
one is posted). After another couple of miles this road enters posted private property,
but there is room to park a few hundred yards above the gate. Proceeding on foot, one
needs to jog east around a corner of the private property fence before descending to the
river. The river lies between small cliffs in this area, but with a little searching
you will find places to descend to the river. Another access trail through private
property departs from Highway 2 just before the highway drops into the valley of summit
creek, approximately four miles above the reservation boundary. There is room to park near
the highway, or you can drive a few hundred yards down a road to a posted gate. The
trailhead is adjacent to this gate. This trail lends itself to use by ATV’s and leads
through private property for 1.5 miles to the South Fork. The next access to the west, and
the one I have used most often, is at a trailhead a mile and a half east of the summit at
the continental divide. Watch for an unloading ramp and horse hitch racks in a flat area
south of the highway. This trail crosses a low ridge before dropping to the river, total
distance is about 2.5 miles. Be warned, this trail can be quite boggy if the weather has
been wet. In my opinion, some of the best fishing lies above where this trail crosses the
South Fork. This trail can also be accessed from the campground at Summit, although the
distance is about a half mile further. Being a hiker and horseman, I kind of hate to
mention this, but the trails in this area are open to trail vehicles and are popular with
users of ATV’s. One other point to be aware of is that all of this is grizzly
country, so take appropriate precautions. With that said, I have never seen a grizzly or
even fresh bear sign in this area, but I’m sure there are a few around.
several mini-canyons, as I call them, where the stream flows under small
cliffs, providing an intimate setting. It is great fun to cast a dry fly into one of these
pools and see several native cutthroats come streaking up through the crystal clear water
to hammer the fly. Sophisticated, match-the-hatch fly fishing it isn’t, but show me
someone who doesn’t find the fishing and setting enjoyable and I will show you
someone who has turned fishing into masochism.
combo on a spinning
outfit would work. Flies I have had success with include hopper patterns, elk hair caddis,
renegades, and Adams. Realistically, these fish aren’t particularly selective and any
reasonable dry fly properly presented should elicite strikes. I haven’t found nymphs
or streamers particularly effective, and since dry flies work so well and are great fun to
boot, I primarily stick to them. Fishing is normally good anytime from the end of run-off,
normally about mid-June, through the fall barring low water in late summer due to drought.